Keynote Speaking & Expert Panels

Waterstones, Piccadilly, London

11th June, 2024

Last night marked the successful launch of Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive at Waterstones Piccadilly. The event, held in the historic former home of Simpsons of Piccadilly, attracted a diverse audience and was fully sold out. It was great to see a variety of people in attendance, including designers, researchers, academics, and dedicated menswear enthusiasts.

The conversation was chaired by Mark C. O'Flaherty, who steered the discussion expertly, guiding us through a range of topics. The audience posed thoughtful questions, encouraging deeper reflection on the archive’s non-hierarchical approach, its influence on global fashion, and the careful selection process behind the 120 featured garments in the book.

It was especially rewarding to reconnect with many familiar faces who have engaged with the archive over the years. The turnout reinforced the ongoing significance of the Westminster Menswear Archive, not just as a resource for the fashion industry but also for academic and cultural study.

During the event, we discussed the archive's broader role. It isn’t simply a collection of garments but a resource that continues to inform and inspire. The placement of a Lidl trainer next to a Louis Vuitton jacket highlights how design transcends labels and offers a more inclusive perspective on fashion history.

A big thank you to everyone who attended. We look forward to building on the conversations started last night and continuing to explore the evolving world of menswear through the archive.

Sevenstore, Liverpool

6th June, 2024

We had a fantastic panel discussion at SEVENSTORE in Liverpool last night to celebrate the launch of our new book Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive. Joining me on the panel were Danielle Sprecher, Aitor Throup Studio, Robyn Lynch, and Elliot Hoste, each bringing their unique perspectives to the table. The conversation was expertly guided by Thomas Gorton, who ensured the discussion flowed smoothly while diving into some truly engaging and insightful topics.

A huge thank you to DAZED Magazine for their continued support throughout this project. Their help in spreading the word about the book has been invaluable. And, of course, a special shoutout to Daniel Milne, whose dedication and commitment from day one made not just the event but the entire project possible.

For those in Liverpool, SEVENSTORE is hosting a special display for the next couple of weeks featuring 20 key garments from the Westminster Menswear Archive. Many of these pieces are highlighted in the book, offering a rare opportunity to see them up close. It’s a fantastic chance to explore the rich history and evolution of menswear through these iconic garments.

We’re also excited to showcase a brilliant new film by Alina Akbar, which is absolutely worth a watch. Alongside this, there’s an exhibition of work by Jamie Liam Humphrey and Ruth Emma, adding even more depth and creativity to the event.

If you're in the area, make sure to stop by SEVENSTORE to take in the garments, the film, and the exhibition. It’s a rare opportunity to get an in-depth look at the archive and experience some incredible new work from emerging talents.

University of Oxford

25th January 2024

It was a privilege to deliver a presentation last evening at Christ Church, University of Oxford. I discussed the Westminster Menswear Archive, its engagement with industry, and our ongoing project, Umbro 100.

Organised by the Oxford Fashion Society, the event provided an opportunity to delve into the role of material culture as a research methodology within menswear design. I drew particular attention to the pioneering work of Massimo Osti, whose innovative approaches to fabric and garment technology continue to influence contemporary menswear practices. The discussion emphasised how this methodology allows for a deeper understanding of design evolution, garment construction, and the sociocultural contexts in which these garments were produced and consumed.

Additionally, I explored the practical challenges and opportunities involved in building an archival collection, specifically through online auction platforms such as eBay and Zenmarket. These platforms have become invaluable tools for acquiring rare and significant pieces, though they present unique challenges in terms of authentication, provenance, and competitive bidding. Despite these obstacles, they have proven essential in expanding the archive’s scope and depth.

The students in attendance were afforded a preview of several key items that will feature in the forthcoming Umbro 100 exhibition, offering insight into the historical and cultural relevance of these pieces within the broader context of sportswear and menswear design.

I would also like to extend special thanks to the Oxford United Football Club fans who participated in a vibrant discussion, contributing their perspectives on the legacy of Umbro and its enduring influence within both football culture and fashion. This interdisciplinary exchange further underscored the importance of public engagement in research dissemination and the role of archival collections in fostering wider cultural conversations.

Cambridge University

13th November 2023

I had the privilege of presenting a lecture at the University of Cambridge, where I discussed the intricate relationship between menswear and camouflage. This presentation was part of the Centre for Research in the Arts, Social Sciences, and Humanities (CRASSH) Cultures of Camouflage network, through which I examined the historical evolution of camouflage and its intersections with the military, menswear, and fine art.

Camouflage’s origins can be traced to the efforts of Parisian artists such as Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scévola, who is often credited as the first to employ painted sheets to conceal artillery during wartime. This early application of camouflage was rooted in artistic ingenuity, blending the boundaries between art and military strategy. However, camouflage’s trajectory extended far beyond the battlefield, permeating other realms of cultural expression. By the 1980s, camouflage had been recontextualised in the realm of high fashion and fine art, most notably by Andy Warhol. Warhol’s use of camouflage in his later work served as a form of industrialised abstract expressionism, demonstrating how a visual language initially created for military purposes could be appropriated for artistic commentary and fashion design.

The presentation also considered more contemporary developments, particularly the phenomenon known as "Gucci kit," where soldiers seek to customise their appearance with non-issue gear to project a sense of style. This trend prompted intriguing questions regarding the direction of influence between military and fashion cultures. Historically, military uniform design has inspired civilian fashion, but this recent shift suggests a possible inversion, with soldiers drawing inspiration from streetwear and high fashion to modify their own appearance.

By exploring these varied cultural and historical intersections, the talk underscored how camouflage has evolved from a utilitarian military tool into a significant symbol within both fashion and art, raising broader questions about the dynamics of influence between these fields.

Images, left to right:

Un Bassin à Versaille au Coucher de Soleil (detail) by Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scévola
Hand-painted Denison smock, 1946
Robert De Niro wearing tiger stripe camouflage, The Deer Hunter, 1978
Public Enemy in urban camouflage, 1988
Camouflage Last Supper (detail), Andy Warhol, 1986
Brick print flak jacket, Bernhard Willhelm, 2004
Self Portrait, Andy Warhol, 1986
Camouflage ice jacket, Stone Island, 1990
Burberry camo check jacket, Pre-Fall 2021
Palace x Gucci Canvas G Square Buckle Camouflage Kilt

Goldwin x Spiber Panel Talk

7th October 2023

I participated in a recent panel discussion centred on the pioneering collaboration between Goldwin and Spiber, which is hoping to redefine the future of sustainable materials through biotech innovation. Hosted by Goldwin, the event explored how their partnership with Spiber has led to the development of cutting-edge bio-fabricated materials, like Brewed Protein, which offer a sustainable alternative to traditional textiles.

During the panel, we discussed the potential impact of these innovations on the fashion industry, particularly in light of the urgent need to address the environmental impact of clothing production. The unique material, developed through fermentation processes, demonstrates how the intersection of fashion and biotechnology can drive progress toward more eco-conscious consumption.

One of the key topics addressed was how Goldwin x Spiber’s innovations aim to challenge conventional manufacturing processes by reducing reliance on petrochemical resources.

Beyond the scientific and technical aspects, the discussion also touched on the societal and cultural implications of adopting such innovations. We explored how consumer awareness and market demand for sustainable products are essential in driving the success of these innovations. The role of brands, researchers, and industry leaders was highlighted as crucial in educating the public on the benefits and potential of biotech-driven materials.