Talks & Lectures

66°North Panel Talk, Regent Street, London

24 February 2025

I had the pleasure of hosting a panel discussion at the 66°North Regent Street flagship, celebrating 99 years of innovation, function, and heritage. Joined by Helgi Rúnar Óskarsson (CEO, 66°North), Hetty Mahlich (SHOWStudio), and Daniel-Yaw Miller (Business of Fashion), we explored the intersection of performance and style, the evolution of extreme-weather gear, and the brand’s future.

The event was accompanied by an archive exhibition tracing 66°North’s history, from early fishermen’s coats to technical mountaineering suits. Seeing these garments in person underscored the brand’s long-standing commitment to craftsmanship and functionality.

Truss Interview, London

19 February 2025

Is fashion really as democratic as it seems?

Fashion constantly claims to be more open, accessible, and inclusive than ever. But behind the scenes? There are still private, invite-only shows for elite clients. The exclusivity never really went away.

In my conversation with Truss, we explored the tension between fashion’s public image of inclusivity and its reality of exclusivity. What does this mean for the future of fashion shows? And how does this impact the way we experience fashion today?

We also discussed:

The loss of the communal experience in fashion shows due to online consumption.
How platforms like TikTok and Instagram have accelerated fashion’s speed, often at the expense of depth.
The illusion of fashion’s democratisation—why access to content doesn’t mean true inclusion.
The impact of nightlife on fashion creativity in the '80s and '90s, and why today’s social media-driven self-presentation just isn’t the same.

Massimo Osti Studio Panel Talk, Liverpool

4 July 2024

The Locating Menswear Forum at Sevenstore closed with a fantastic finale, a panel discussion on the Massimo Osti Studio, which I had the pleasure of chairing.

Lorenzo shared the initial ideas behind founding the Massimo Osti Studio, a process that began over two years ago. Having this event as the culmination of our 18-month research network project made it even more significant, bringing together friends, colleagues, and industry experts to reflect on its impact.
A huge thank you to Mark MacDonald, and Daniel Milne at Sevenstore, and to Lorenzo Osti and C.P. Company for their invaluable support. Their commitment has been instrumental in fostering new and emerging menswear researchers, ensuring that the legacy of innovation in technical apparel continues to inspire future generations.

Waterstones, Piccadilly, London

11 June 2024

Last night’s sold-out launch of Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive at Waterstones Piccadilly underscored the growing impact of the archive on global fashion, design, and research. Hosted in the historic former home of Simpsons of Piccadilly, the event brought together a diverse audience, including designers, industry leaders, researchers, and dedicated menswear enthusiasts—highlighting the archive’s relevance across multiple sectors.

Chaired by Mark C. O’Flaherty, the conversation delved into key themes, including:

The non-hierarchical approach of the Westminster Menswear Archive and its challenge to traditional fashion narratives.

How the archive influences global brands and emerging designers by offering a unique resource for research and innovation.

The curation process behind the 120 garments featured in Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive, illustrating how fashion can be recontextualised beyond luxury and mainstream labels.

This discussion reinforced how the archive is more than a collection of garments—it is a critical resource shaping contemporary fashion discourse, industry practice, and academic study.

Sevenstore, Liverpool

6 June 2024

Last night, we hosted a dynamic panel discussion at SEVENSTORE Liverpool to mark the launch of Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive. The conversation brought together key voices in contemporary menswear, including Danielle Sprecher, Aitor Throup Studio, Robyn Lynch, and Elliot Hoste, offering unique insights into the archive’s influence on fashion, design, and industry practice. Expertly chaired by Thomas Gorton, the discussion explored:

The role of fashion archives in shaping new design narratives.

How historical research informs innovation in menswear.

The interplay between commercial brands, independent designers, and subcultures.

A special thanks to DAZED Magazine for their ongoing support in amplifying this project and to Daniel Milne, whose dedication made this event—and the book—possible.

For those in Liverpool, SEVENSTORE is hosting a special exhibition for the next two weeks, featuring:

20 key garments from the Westminster Menswear Archive, many of which are highlighted in the book.

A new film by Alina Akbar, offering fresh perspectives on menswear.

Works by Jamie Liam Humphrey and Ruth Emma, further expanding the conversation around fashion and culture.

This event reinforced how the Westminster Menswear Archive is not just a collection of garments but a resource for designers, brands, and researchers worldwide.

University of Oxford

25th January 2024

It was a privilege to deliver a presentation last evening at Christ Church, University of Oxford. I discussed the Westminster Menswear Archive, its engagement with industry, and our ongoing project, Umbro 100.

Organised by the Oxford Fashion Society, the event provided an opportunity to delve into the role of material culture as a research methodology within menswear design. I drew particular attention to the pioneering work of Massimo Osti, whose innovative approaches to fabric and garment technology continue to influence contemporary menswear practices. The discussion emphasised how this methodology allows for a deeper understanding of design evolution, garment construction, and the sociocultural contexts in which these garments were produced and consumed.

Additionally, I explored the practical challenges and opportunities involved in building an archival collection, specifically through online auction platforms such as eBay and Zenmarket. These platforms have become invaluable tools for acquiring rare and significant pieces, though they present unique challenges in terms of authentication, provenance, and competitive bidding. Despite these obstacles, they have proven essential in expanding the archive’s scope and depth.

The students in attendance were afforded a preview of several key items that will feature in the forthcoming Umbro 100 exhibition, offering insight into the historical and cultural relevance of these pieces within the broader context of sportswear and menswear design.

I would also like to extend special thanks to the Oxford United Football Club fans who participated in a vibrant discussion, contributing their perspectives on the legacy of Umbro and its enduring influence within both football culture and fashion. This interdisciplinary exchange further underscored the importance of public engagement in research dissemination and the role of archival collections in fostering wider cultural conversations.

Cambridge University

13th November 2023

I had the privilege of presenting a lecture at the University of Cambridge, where I discussed the intricate relationship between menswear and camouflage. This presentation was part of the Centre for Research in the Arts, Social Sciences, and Humanities (CRASSH) Cultures of Camouflage network, through which I examined the historical evolution of camouflage and its intersections with the military, menswear, and fine art.

Camouflage’s origins can be traced to the efforts of Parisian artists such as Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scévola, who is often credited as the first to employ painted sheets to conceal artillery during wartime. This early application of camouflage was rooted in artistic ingenuity, blending the boundaries between art and military strategy. However, camouflage’s trajectory extended far beyond the battlefield, permeating other realms of cultural expression. By the 1980s, camouflage had been recontextualised in the realm of high fashion and fine art, most notably by Andy Warhol. Warhol’s use of camouflage in his later work served as a form of industrialised abstract expressionism, demonstrating how a visual language initially created for military purposes could be appropriated for artistic commentary and fashion design.

The presentation also considered more contemporary developments, particularly the phenomenon known as "Gucci kit," where soldiers seek to customise their appearance with non-issue gear to project a sense of style. This trend prompted intriguing questions regarding the direction of influence between military and fashion cultures. Historically, military uniform design has inspired civilian fashion, but this recent shift suggests a possible inversion, with soldiers drawing inspiration from streetwear and high fashion to modify their own appearance.

By exploring these varied cultural and historical intersections, the talk underscored how camouflage has evolved from a utilitarian military tool into a significant symbol within both fashion and art, raising broader questions about the dynamics of influence between these fields.

Images, left to right:

Un Bassin à Versaille au Coucher de Soleil (detail) by Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scévola
Hand-painted Denison smock, 1946
Robert De Niro wearing tiger stripe camouflage, The Deer Hunter, 1978
Public Enemy in urban camouflage, 1988
Camouflage Last Supper (detail), Andy Warhol, 1986
Brick print flak jacket, Bernhard Willhelm, 2004
Self Portrait, Andy Warhol, 1986
Camouflage ice jacket, Stone Island, 1990
Burberry camo check jacket, Pre-Fall 2021
Palace x Gucci Canvas G Square Buckle Camouflage Kilt

Goldwin x Spiber Panel Talk

7th October 2023

I participated in a recent panel discussion centred on the pioneering collaboration between Goldwin and Spiber, which is hoping to redefine the future of sustainable materials through biotech innovation. Hosted by Goldwin, the event explored how their partnership with Spiber has led to the development of cutting-edge bio-fabricated materials, like Brewed Protein, which offer a sustainable alternative to traditional textiles.

During the panel, we discussed the potential impact of these innovations on the fashion industry, particularly in light of the urgent need to address the environmental impact of clothing production. The unique material, developed through fermentation processes, demonstrates how the intersection of fashion and biotechnology can drive progress toward more eco-conscious consumption.

One of the key topics addressed was how Goldwin x Spiber’s innovations aim to challenge conventional manufacturing processes by reducing reliance on petrochemical resources.

Beyond the scientific and technical aspects, the discussion also touched on the societal and cultural implications of adopting such innovations. We explored how consumer awareness and market demand for sustainable products are essential in driving the success of these innovations. The role of brands, researchers, and industry leaders was highlighted as crucial in educating the public on the benefits and potential of biotech-driven materials.

C.P. Company Cinquanta Panel Talk

27th September 2021

In 2021, as part of C.P. Company Cinquanta—the brand’s 50th-anniversary celebrations—we gathered in London for a panel talk that explored the deep cultural and emotional resonance of C.P. Company’s legacy, particularly its enduring influence in the north of England.

Chaired by David Hellqvist, I was joined on stage by Lorenzo Osti, Gary Aspden, and Neil Munn, each bringing their own perspectives on the relationship between garments, identity, and subculture. The discussion traced how C.P. Company became embedded in British youth culture, from its early adoption by football casuals to its continued relevance among collectors and new generations of wearers.

One of the key themes we explored was the emotional connection between a garment and its wearer. C.P. Company pieces are more than just functional sportswear; they carry personal histories, stories, and meaning. From jackets passed down through generations to pieces worn at defining moments in someone’s life, the brand’s designs have become markers of individual and collective experience. We also discussed:

How C.P. Company’s technical innovation has shaped menswear over the last five decades.
The role of archival pieces in inspiring contemporary design.
The brand’s unique relationship with British and Italian subcultures, particularly in the North of England.

For those who couldn’t attend, Cinquanta was a moment to reflect on how heritage, innovation, and cultural identity intersect in fashion. The brand’s commitment to experimentation and storytelling ensures that every C.P. Company garment is more than just clothing—it’s a part of history.