SS Daley’s latest collection, presented at London Fashion Week, marked a pivotal moment in the designer’s career, as he ventured into womenswear for the first time. Steven Stokey-Daley, a graduate of Westminster's BA Fashion Design course, where I had the privilege of teaching him, has continued to demonstrate a deep engagement with British heritage and historical narratives. His latest work, inspired by the British artist Gluck, beautifully interwove themes of gender, identity, and craftsmanship, while staying true to his distinctive sartorial storytelling.
The collection itself featured a compelling juxtaposition of sharp, tailored pieces with softer, more romantic garments. Pixelated floral motifs on beaded skirts reflected Daley’s characteristic attention to detail, while voluminous trench coats adorned with intricate prints paid homage to Gluck’s legacy. Daley’s consistent use of deadstock fabrics highlights his ongoing commitment to sustainable fashion, a principle that has been integral to his brand since its inception.
In addition to the technical and aesthetic achievements of the collection, the show attracted significant attention, not least due to the presence of Harry Styles, a front-row guest and investor in SS Daley. Styles, whose association with the brand stretches back several years, has been instrumental in bringing international visibility to Daley’s work, emphasising the brand’s relevance within contemporary fashion’s fluid approach to gender and identity.
It's also worth noting that examples of Steven’s early work can be found within the Westminster Menswear Archive, offering a valuable insight into the formative stages of his design career. His progression from his work at Westminster to the innovative, narrative-driven pieces he presents today speaks to a remarkable evolution—one that continues to challenge and redefine the boundaries of British fashion.
For a more detailed look into the collection, reviews from Vogue and The Independent provide further insights.
How Harry Styles Became 2020’s Biggest Fashion Icon
By Jacob Gallagher
HARRY STYLES wore a dress. You may well know that already even if you don’t follow fashion or music closely. Photos of the British singer in the custom Gucci frock—snapped for the cover of Vogue—swarmed the internet a few weeks ago, sending his brigade of fans into a tizzy. Scads of tweets and online articles recycled the images. And while most of the coverage lauded Mr. Styles for his beguiling, gender-bending outfit, some conservative pundits including Candace Owens predictably wrung their hands, interpreting the hubbub as a death knell for the so-called “manly man.”
Mr. Styles's Vogue cover elicited little more than "a shrug" from Andrew Groves, 52, professor of fashion design at the University of Westminster in London. As Prof. Groves pointed out, when Bowie wore a dress in the early '70s, it was "really provocative because it was outside society's norms."